Campeche

Becán, Campeche, Mexico

Stucco relief of a Maya leader (?) with remnants of red and black paint. Becán, Campeche, Mexico. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Stucco relief of a Maya leader (?) with remnants of red and black paint. Becán, Campeche, Mexico. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

I’ve been missing Mexico, and since we won’t have an opportunity for real travel in the near future, I thought I’d take a trip down memory lane instead. This week’s particular road leads to Becán in southern Campeche.

The Preclassic Maya city of Becán was once the capital of its region, of sites now linked by their Río Bec and, to a lesser extent, Chenes architectural styles. It was probably founded around 550 BCE and remained an important center for trade even during its eventual decline in the early Classic period. Not coincidentally, a defensive moat or ditch was built by 250 CE, around the time the city began to falter. Becán was ultimately abandoned circa 1200 CE.

The INAH sign near Becán’s entrance, recreating the city center as it would have appeared after the moat’s construction. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

The INAH sign near Becán’s entrance, recreating the city center as it would have appeared after the moat’s construction. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Today, the site’s greatest highlight is perhaps a section of well-preserved stucco relief (pictured at the top of this post), now protected behind glass. As a former center with less tourist draw than places like Chichén Itzá and greater ease of access than nearby Calakmul, Becán is also a good site for exploring, whether wandering through narrow passageways or taking in the flora and fauna that call the ruins home.

Pyramid in Becán, Campeche, Mexico. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Pyramid in Becán, Campeche, Mexico. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Becán anole. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Becán anole. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Covered stairway at Becán. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Covered stairway at Becán. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Great Kiskadee in Becán, Campeche, Mexico. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Great Kiskadee in Becán, Campeche, Mexico. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Arched passageway in Becán. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Arched passageway in Becán. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

The stuff of dreams and nightmares. One of many old ceiba trees at Becán. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

The stuff of dreams and nightmares. One of many old ceiba trees at Becán. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Narrow walkway leading to Mayan arch, Becán. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Narrow walkway leading to Mayan arch, Becán. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Drama, humor, and naturalism in Maya sculptures of the human form

Statue of a warrior on the east side of the Codz Poop, Kabah. Photo by Joshua Albers.

Statue of a warrior on the east side of the Codz Poop, Kabah. Photo by Joshua Albers.

On view at the Gran Museo del Mundo Maya, Mérida. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

On view at the Gran Museo del Mundo Maya, Mérida. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Late Classic Jaina Male Figure, 650/800 CE. Collection of the Art Institute of Chicago. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Late Classic Jaina Male Figure, 650/800 CE. Collection of the Art Institute of Chicago. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Late Classic Maya Stela from the vicinity of Calakmul, 702 CE. Collection of the Art Institute of Chicago. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Late Classic Maya Stela from the vicinity of Calakmul, 702 CE. Collection of the Art Institute of Chicago. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Figurine on view at the Gran Museo del Mundo Maya, Mérida. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Figurine on view at the Gran Museo del Mundo Maya, Mérida. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Reproduction of a Jaina figure from the Classic period (250—900 CE). On view at Baluarte de la Soledad, Campeche. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Reproduction of a Jaina figure from the Classic period (250—900 CE). On view at Baluarte de la Soledad, Campeche. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Anthropomorphic torso from the Late Classic period. This painted figure is a rare example of the kind of figures that originally decorated architectural façades and roof combs. On view at the Gran Museo del Mundo Maya, Mérida. Photo by Renée DeVoe M…

Anthropomorphic torso from the Late Classic period. This painted figure is a rare example of the kind of figures that originally decorated architectural façades and roof combs. On view at the Gran Museo del Mundo Maya, Mérida. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Face carved into shell. On view at the Gran Museo del Mundo Maya, Mérida. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Face carved into shell. On view at the Gran Museo del Mundo Maya, Mérida. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.