Mexico

Becán, Campeche, Mexico

Stucco relief of a Maya leader (?) with remnants of red and black paint. Becán, Campeche, Mexico. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Stucco relief of a Maya leader (?) with remnants of red and black paint. Becán, Campeche, Mexico. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

I’ve been missing Mexico, and since we won’t have an opportunity for real travel in the near future, I thought I’d take a trip down memory lane instead. This week’s particular road leads to Becán in southern Campeche.

The Preclassic Maya city of Becán was once the capital of its region, of sites now linked by their Río Bec and, to a lesser extent, Chenes architectural styles. It was probably founded around 550 BCE and remained an important center for trade even during its eventual decline in the early Classic period. Not coincidentally, a defensive moat or ditch was built by 250 CE, around the time the city began to falter. Becán was ultimately abandoned circa 1200 CE.

The INAH sign near Becán’s entrance, recreating the city center as it would have appeared after the moat’s construction. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

The INAH sign near Becán’s entrance, recreating the city center as it would have appeared after the moat’s construction. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Today, the site’s greatest highlight is perhaps a section of well-preserved stucco relief (pictured at the top of this post), now protected behind glass. As a former center with less tourist draw than places like Chichén Itzá and greater ease of access than nearby Calakmul, Becán is also a good site for exploring, whether wandering through narrow passageways or taking in the flora and fauna that call the ruins home.

Pyramid in Becán, Campeche, Mexico. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Pyramid in Becán, Campeche, Mexico. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Becán anole. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Becán anole. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Covered stairway at Becán. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Covered stairway at Becán. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Great Kiskadee in Becán, Campeche, Mexico. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Great Kiskadee in Becán, Campeche, Mexico. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Arched passageway in Becán. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Arched passageway in Becán. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

The stuff of dreams and nightmares. One of many old ceiba trees at Becán. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

The stuff of dreams and nightmares. One of many old ceiba trees at Becán. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Narrow walkway leading to Mayan arch, Becán. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Narrow walkway leading to Mayan arch, Becán. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Walls of Tulum

Street mural in Tulum. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Street mural in Tulum. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Street mural in Tulum. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Street mural in Tulum. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Street mural in Tulum. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Street mural in Tulum. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Street mural in Tulum. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Street mural in Tulum. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Street art in Tulum. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Street art in Tulum. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Detail of street mural in Tulum. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Detail of street mural in Tulum. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Ghostly-pale gecko clinging to a wall in Tulum. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.

Ghostly-pale gecko clinging to a wall in Tulum. Photo by Renée DeVoe Mertz.